At the coast again today, did four hours in the water. It was like other times: fun. This time however I really rode a wave for real: catch, stand, ride. It was great.
Turns out the problem was that I was paddling too hard. You need to paddle on your board, matching the speed of the wave to catch it. I was out running the waves. The instructor was surprised, he'd never seen anyone with that issue before; usually people don't paddle hard enough
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